Notchy shift from 2nd to 3rd

[audihere]

Anyone have any advice for a shift lever that has a notch going from 2nd into 3rd until car is VERY warmed up? The notch is not felt if car is turned off and just running thru gears.

I had new shift pins installed and fluid changed twice. Going to try some ASMOIL 5W30 next with fingers crossed.

Thanks!

 

[fr.jazbec]

I don't know if I understand your problem correctly, but to me it sounds like the well-known locking bolt problem of the transmission. Actually, it is enough to make the bolts work again. Unfortunately, I can't find any instructions on the internet, BMW probably had something blocked.

 

[audihere]

I don't know if I understand your problem correctly, but to me it sounds like the well-known locking bolt problem of the transmission. Actually, it is enough to make the bolts work again. Unfortunately, I can't find any instructions on the internet, BMW probably had something blocked.

I had all the shift pins replaced. Is that what you are referring to?

 

[fr.jazbec]

I mean this locking bolts.

 

[_miki_]

Hi,
the notchy shift for example 2nd to 3rd is not the locking bolts fr.jazbec is referring to in his last post I think-
There is also a shift pin on top of the transmission that can fail on this type of transmission- to be precise there it is one shift pin for each gear selector fork (so three in sum for each shift channel). See attached picture for the kind pin I mean- Pins have been improved from a spring loaded thick one (right side parts) to a spring loaded thinner one with additional guiding sleeve that prevents the pin from seizing (left set of parts).
I assume that one of the three pins does not work perfectly and gives you this bad shift feel when you engage the gear.
Fr.jazbec´s pins located RH side do operate the channel you select with your lever- means the gate1-2 or gate 3-4 or 5th or reverse. The one that often fails there is the one with the lowest preload from the spring (the 5th one see fr.jazbecs picture position 2)
Normally you can order both complete sets from your BMW dealer and replace all parts in one repair session when the transmission is on the workbench- (it comes as a set ask your dealer or google for part numbers).
Amsoil or any other magic fluid does not cure this problem- the problem may change with transmission operation temperature but a seized pin doesn´t heal itself...
..and do also keep in mind that you need a simple tool to install the sleeves...

cheers Michel

 

[audihere]

Hi,
the notchy shift for example 2nd to 3rd is not the locking bolts fr.jazbec is referring to in his last post I think-
There is also a shift pin on top of the transmission that can fail on this type of transmission- to be precise there it is one shift pin for each gear selector fork (so three in sum for each shift channel). See attached picture for the kind pin I mean- Pins have been improved from a spring loaded thick one (right side parts) to a spring loaded thinner one with additional guiding sleeve that prevents the pin from seizing (left set of parts).
I assume that one of the three pins does not work perfectly and gives you this bad shift feel when you engage the gear.
Fr. jazbec's pins located RH side do operate the channel you select with your lever means the gate 1-2 or gate 3-4 or 5th or reverse. The one that often fails there is the one with the lowest preload from the spring (the 5th one see fr.jazbecs picture position 2)
Normally you can order both complete sets from your BMW dealer and replace all parts in one repair session when the transmission is on the workbench- (it comes as a set ask your dealer or google for part numbers).
Amsoil or any other magic fluid does not cure this problem- the problem may change with transmission operation temperature but a seized pin doesn´t heal itself ...
..and do also keep in mind that you need a simple tool to install the sleeves ...

cheers Michel

Anhang anzeigen 465022

 

[audihere]

Hi,
the notchy shift for example 2nd to 3rd is not the locking bolts fr.jazbec is referring to in his last post I think-
There is also a shift pin on top of the transmission that can fail on this type of transmission- to be precise there it is one shift pin for each gear selector fork (so three in sum for each shift channel). See attached picture for the kind pin I mean- Pins have been improved from a spring loaded thick one (right side parts) to a spring loaded thinner one with additional guiding sleeve that prevents the pin from seizing (left set of parts).
I assume that one of the three pins does not work perfectly and gives you this bad shift feel when you engage the gear.
Fr. jazbec's pins located RH side do operate the channel you select with your lever means the gate 1-2 or gate 3-4 or 5th or reverse. The one that often fails there is the one with the lowest preload from the spring (the 5th one see fr.jazbecs picture position 2)
Normally you can order both complete sets from your BMW dealer and replace all parts in one repair session when the transmission is on the workbench- (it comes as a set ask your dealer or google for part numbers).
Amsoil or any other magic fluid does not cure this problem- the problem may change with transmission operation temperature but a seized pin doesn´t heal itself ...
..and do also keep in mind that you need a simple tool to install the sleeves ...

cheers Michel

Anhang anzeigen 465022

 

[audihere]

Shoot, my reply was lost.

Michel, that's very good information.

I had a full shift pins kit installed sold by Bimmer World a few months ago. It fixed my 5th gear lean and difficulty engaging reverse.

I still have a notch going from 2nd to 3rd.

But, if engine is Off, ALL shifting gates are silky smooth. No notch. Very smooth shifting when engine if Off.

Could it still be a shift pins problem even if there is no notch when engine is off? That would mean that maybe kit was installed improperly?

Thanks !!

 

[_miki_]

Check transmission for correct fluid level.
...when all shift pins on the transmission are correctly installed and are working fine- you´re probably running a bad clutch actuation-
keep an eye on the brake fluid that also runs the clutch, when was it changed? Check brake fluid for correct height, bleed the clutch pedal carefully, check for leaks in the lines or hose, check the clutch fork for cracks and- that is difficult- check the fork location pin for unusual wear... if possible.
Clutch master- and slave-cylinder should also be checked for correct functionality- include the plastic clutch pedal...
Finally there is an adjustable slave cylinder actuation pin on the aftermarket that fixes a problem that correlates with high operation temperatures on track cars with heavy use...
finally if all these simple checks are without any signs of malfunction- your clutch itself needs to be checked for any issue...
,,,or someone else here does have another hint... I´m currently running out of ideas...

Good luck

 

[audihere]

Check transmission for correct fluid level.
... when all shift pins on the transmission are correctly installed and are working fine- you're probably running a bad clutch actuation-
keep an eye on the brake fluid that also runs the clutch, when was it changed? Check brake fluid for correct height, bleed the clutch pedal carefully, check for leaks in the lines or hose, check the clutch fork for cracks and- that is difficult- check the fork location pin for unusual wear ... if possible.
Clutch master- and slave-cylinder should also be checked for correct functionality- include the plastic clutch pedal ...
Finally there is an adjustable slave cylinder actuation pin on the aftermarket that fixes a problem that correlates with high operation temperatures on track cars with heavy use ...
finally if all these simple checks are without any signs of malfunction- your clutch itself needs to be checked for any issue ...
,,, or someone else here does have another hint ... I'm currently running out of ideas ...

Good luck

Michel, I'm running out of ideas too. haha

Previous owner had new clutch, master and slave cylinders installed.

I did:

- The full shift pins kit
- 3 types of transmission fluid.
- replaced a SS slave cylinder hose with a new SS slave cylinder hose
- New plastic clutch pedal (with bushing) and then a new Mason Engineering metal clutch pedal

I really haven't inspected the clutch fork or shifter linkages.

Car off, smooth shifting.

Car on, sharp notch going from 2nd to 3rd.

** After car gets VERY warmed up, this 2nd to 3rd notch goes away.

Maybe I'm being too picky? I haven't ever driven another similar car to compare.