Heckklappe verriegelt nicht

Those were my questions as well. In the installed state, it’s not possible to work cleanly, and you’d likely end up damaging more than you repair.
If you don’t feel confident doing it, maybe RobbiZ4 can help you.
 
If you want to do it this way, you must make absolutely sure that the entire unit and your wires do not move at all during soldering.
For me, it was easier to remove it than to try this method.
After reading through everything, the conclusion is: @RobbiZ4 is right — that’s quality; everything else is a botched job.
 
So this is what I am dealing with here. Looks like it has possibly been repaired before.

Clean cut of the blue wire, and it looks like some green wire is exposing copper right at the switch.

Any advice on what steps to take here?

Don’t suppose this wire is any good, got loads of it!IMG_4780.jpegIMG_4781.jpegIMG_4782.jpeg
 
Wow, exactly the mess I was describing!Stiffened and shortened wires cause them to break right at the microswitch.

On top of that, the idiot cut off the white strain relief clips because his dirty work had become too thick.

2-core speaker wires are absolutely the opposite of 3 flexible LiFy 0.25mm² wires. :) :-)


Similiar examples of messy repairs and how it should be rebuilt:
⌛ ------- Dachstörungen Klappdach ------- ☕

⌛ ------- Dachstörungen Klappdach ------- ☕



Good luck.
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Wow, exactly the mess I was describing!Stiffened and shortened wires cause them to break right at the microswitch.

On top of that, the idiot cut off the white strain relief clips because his dirty work had become too thick.

2-core speaker wires are absolutely the opposite of 3 flexible LiFy 0.25mm² wires.


Similiar examples of messy repairs and how it should be rebuilt:
⌛ ------- Dachstörungen Klappdach ------- ☕

⌛ ------- Dachstörungen Klappdach ------- ☕



Good luck.
Could you please send me a direct link to the exact type wire I need please?

Also noticed the strain relief missing too, another problem to overcome.
 
Could you please send me a direct link to the exact type wire I need please?
That is the material I used for repairs:

Of course, you don't need 100m per colour. :D

The cutted strain relief is the reason, why all mechanically forces wil be led directly into the potted solder terminals of the microswitches.
 
This is the mess I’m left with all shrink removed. Really don’t know what’s best, repair or replace. The exposed copper on the green wire is so close to the switch. Also, even if I do repair, how to I go about the lackof relief?

Not even checked the left side yet!

IMG_4785.jpeg
 
I replaced the cable all the way to the connector, removed the pins from the plug, and used new pins.
This way, I only had one solder joint, and I also adjusted the cable length accordingly, see pictures.
Since my repair, I’ve had no issues — the trunk light and soft-close function work perfectly.
Yours looks like it could be repaired as well.
 
Thank you for all the advice everyone.

Decided to just order a brand new unit from BMW. At least I’ll be able to fit myself.

Just want trouble free motoring, I’d always be paranoid about failure again.

I know there are 100 other things that could go wrong!
 
Bei einem Freund eine interessante Entdeckung gemacht:

20260400_000000_cpr.jpg

Nach teurer Vor-Reparatur war das Schloß wieder defekt:
  • 2 Drähte verkürzt gelötet
  • 1 Draht (sw) lang belassen
  • Äußere Hülle entfernt
  • Zu kurze Leitungen neben die Zugentlastung gelegt
  • Per Schrumpfschlauch alles versteift
  • Alle linken Drähte wieder kaputt, sw und gn durch
  • Auf der rechten Seite ebenfalls Hülle und Zugentlastung entfernt
  • Alle 3 Drähte angebrochen

So geht's nicht!​

Zu allem Überfluss hat ein Idiot (Werkstatt?) durch Einsprühen von Motorrad-Kettenspray (klebriges Zeugs) in die Flipper-Öffnungen versucht, das früher schon mal defekte Schloss wieder gangbar zu machen!
 
Bei einem Freund eine interessante Entdeckung gemacht:

Anhang anzeigen 717910

Nach teurer Vor-Reparatur war das Schloß wieder defekt:
  • 2 Drähte verkürzt gelötet
  • 1 Draht (sw) lang belassen
  • Äußere Hülle entfernt
  • Zu kurze Leitungen neben die Zugentlastung gelegt
  • Per Schrumpfschlauch alles versteift
  • Alle linken Drähte wieder kaputt, sw und gn durch
  • Auf der rechten Seite ebenfalls Hülle und Zugentlastung entfernt
  • Alle 3 Drähte angebrochen

So geht's nicht!​

Zu allem Überfluss hat ein Idiot (Werkstatt?) durch Einsprühen von Motorrad-Kettenspray (klebriges Zeugs) in die Flipper-Öffnungen versucht, das früher schon mal defekte Schloss wieder gangbar zu machen!
Ist da nicht was gebrochen? Ich meine die Stelle links unterhalb der rechten Zugentlastung....
 
Hello everyone,

Just a quick update and another question!

The new mechanism finally arrived from BMW. 5 wires re-connected, boot light working fine.

Closed boot, vehicle latches and soft close works!! As expected from a new part I guess.

However, one issue I now have, and that is it won’t lock! It latches and soft closes fully, but when I press key fob, doors lock but the boot can still be opened.

Is there something I’ve missed? I’m pretty certain I seated all the cables fully.

The car hasn’t been driven for over 10 days due to awaiting the part. Could a low battery be an issue (even though the doors lock).

Any help as always greatly appreciated.
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Hello everyone,

Just a quick update and another question!

The new mechanism finally arrived from BMW. 5 wires re-connected, boot light working fine.

Closed boot, vehicle latches and soft close works!! As expected from a new part I guess.

However, one issue I now have, and that is it won’t lock! It latches and soft closes fully, but when I press key fob, doors lock but the boot can still be opened.

Is there something I’ve missed? I’m pretty certain I seated all the cables fully.

The car hasn’t been driven for over 10 days due to awaiting the part. Could a low battery be an issue (even though the doors lock).

Any help as always greatly appreciated.
Do you have keyless entry? Then do put the key away, or it is wanted behavior that the boot opens without unlocking it explicitly. Also, the other locks should still be locked.
 
Do you have keyless entry? Then do put the key away, or it is wanted behavior that the boot opens without unlocking it explicitly. Also, the other locks should still be locked.

That’s it!!!! Thank you!!! I’m back at work and messaged my wife to try the boot again, and it’s locked.

Thank god you were kind enough to reply before I started stripping it down again!!

Thanks again, much appreciated.
 
Zuletzt bearbeitet:
Zurück
Oben Unten